Vion Lue


In Uncategorized on September 16, 2009 at 11:10 pm

September 9, 2009

Ralph Lauren is obviously confident that the young Polo wearer will
one day evolve into an aficionado of the top-of-the-line Purple range.
This would border on arrogance if it wasn't for the fact that Lauren's
three towers of power (Polo, Black, and Purple) make such distinct—and
distinctively appealing—pitches. And if an understandable caution
prevailed last season, Spring 2010 saw a partial return of the
indulgent details that have always brought an element of seductive
surprise to Ralph's menswear.

Purple, for instance, is supposed to be the very pinnacle of masculine
luxury and elegance, but Lauren juiced it up for Spring with silk ties
in a transcendently psychedelic paisley. Purple's color accent was
actually a Lolita pink, coolly counterpointed by a navy pinstriped
shirt paired with matching pants. This interplay of color and cool
also featured in Black, where the Slimane-influenced city slickness
the line launched with has now evolved into clothes for the weekend
warrior: shirts with silver-tipped collars, snap closings, and Western
yokes, and multi-pocketed, zippered motocross jeans so fitted they
could pose a threat to one's circulation. But as usual, it was Polo
where the design team's creativity took flight: clothes for the
bohemian traveler in tapestry-patterned shorts and a worn, kilim-
patterned cardigan; a group of retro-flavored sportswear that crossed
Jay Gatsby with Lanvin; a sun-faded cotton blazer over a madras
waistcoat that suggested long hot summers in a fantasy Hamptons. Fancy
pants in a hot-pink silk shantung? Ralph had them. And if such an item
hinted at a confident spirit of adventure, the slim-line navy tux
offered the perfectly complementary evening look.

— Tim Blanks


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